Cross the creek by abra for AED 1, start with an Emirati breakfast in Al Fahidi, give an afternoon to the Alserkal galleries and book a Satwa rooftop counter weeks ahead. Plan by area: distances are long.
Dubai at a glance
- Time zone
- Gulf Standard Time, UTC+4, all year: there is no daylight saving
- Currency
- UAE dirham (AED), pegged at about 3.67 to the US dollar. Cards and phone payments are taken almost everywhere; 5% VAT applies
- Language
- Arabic. English is spoken in hotels, shops and restaurants, and street signs use both
- Airports
- Dubai International (DXB): the Metro Red Line from Terminals 1 and 3 to Financial Centre (DIFC) or Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall station, or a taxi from the rank, about 20–30 min to Downtown outside rush hour. Al Maktoum (DWC) is further south: plan on a taxi
- Best months
- November to March; from May to September highs average about 38–42°C
- Power
- UK-style three-pin plugs (type G), about 230 V
- Tipping
- About 10–15% at restaurants when the bill has no service charge; check first, as many add one. AED 5–10 for taxis
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Where to spend your time
- Al Fahidi and Bur Dubai Walk the wind-tower lanes of Al Fahidi early, then follow the creek to Al Shindagha Museum at its mouth.
- Deira Cross the creek by abra for AED 1, cash, then walk the Spice Souk into the Gold Souk.
- DIFC Book dinner around Gate Village, a short walk from Financial Centre Metro station.
- Downtown and Business Bay See the Burj Khalifa from the lake after dark, then records and small plates at Honeycomb Hi-Fi.
- Alserkal Avenue Give an afternoon to the warehouse galleries in Al Quoz: The Third Line, a film at Cinema Akil, coffee at Nightjar.
- Jumeirah Swim from a public beach in the morning, take the guided visit at Jumeirah Mosque, and book dinner on Jumeirah Beach Road.
- Satwa A low-rise neighbourhood between Jumeirah and Sheikh Zayed Road: walk in to Ravi or Al Mallah, or book Moonrise’s 15-seat rooftop counter weeks ahead.
Where we’d send a friend
- Arabian Tea House Al Fahidi, Bur Dubai. Emirati breakfasts and tea in a shaded courtyard in the old quarter, serving since 1997. Al Fahidi St, Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, Bur Dubai. Order: The Emirati breakfast tray, with balaleet and khameer bread. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM. Only groups of 10 or more need a reservation. Website
- Nightjar Coffee Roasters Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz. A specialty roaster with an eatery inside the Alserkal Avenue arts district. Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz 1. Order: Rotisserie chicken to share, then the custard pie. Open daily, 9 AM to 10 PM. No reservations; busiest from 10 AM to 2 PM. Website
- 3Fils Jumeirah Fishing Harbour, Jumeirah 1. Japanese-leaning cooking at the fishing harbour; No. 1 on the first MENA’s 50 Best list (2022), and a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Shop 02, Jumeirah Fishing Harbour 1, Al Urouba St. Order: Wagyu tortilla kebabz. Open daily, noon to 11:30 PM. Walk-ins only: no reservations and no waiting list. Website
- Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant Al Fahidi, Bur Dubai. Emirati cooking in a house in the old quarter; a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Villa 54-44, Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, Bur Dubai. Order: The Emirati breakfast. Open daily, 8 AM to 11 PM. Book on WhatsApp from its site. Website
- Kinoya The Greens. Ramen, tsukemen and yakitori; No. 2 on MENA’s 50 Best 2026 and a Michelin Bib Gourmand. The Onyx Tower 2, next to Zabeel House, The Greens. Order: Shio ramen. Closed Mondays. Open noon to 1 AM; last ramen orders at 4:45 PM and 11:30 PM. Website
- Orfali Bros Wasl 51, Jumeirah 1. The Orfali brothers’ modern Middle Eastern tasting menus; two Michelin stars since October 2026. Wasl 51, Jumeirah 1. Order: The OG menu, with the Aleppo street bun. Closed Tuesdays. Dinner only. Book on SevenRooms; the prepayment is forfeited within 72 hours. Website
- Moonrise Satwa. A 15-seat rooftop counter serving one tasting menu; one Michelin star. Eden House rooftop, 41 St, Satwa. Order: The tasting menu, with the grilled cheese. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Seatings at 6 PM and 9:30 PM. Book on SevenRooms with an AED 500 deposit; the menu is about AED 995. Website
- Tasca by José Avillez Mandarin Oriental, Jumeirah 1. José Avillez’s Portuguese cooking on a sixth-floor terrace over the sea; one Michelin star. Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Jumeirah Beach Rd. Order: Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá. Lunch from 12:30 PM (brunch on Saturdays); dinner 6:30 to 11 PM. Book on SevenRooms. Website
- Trèsind Studio The Palm Jumeirah. Himanshu Saini’s Indian tasting menu, one of two three-Michelin-star tables in Dubai in 2026. St. Regis Gardens, The Palm Jumeirah. Order: The tasting menu, with the Papadom drinks pairing. Closed Sundays. Two seatings, 6 PM and 9:15 PM. Booking needs prepayment of AED 1,350 a person, refunded if you cancel 48 hours ahead. Website
- Birch DIFC. A chef-owned tasting-menu restaurant with Turkmen roots; one Michelin star, new in 2026. Limestone House, The Ritz-Carlton DIFC. Order: The Birch Classic menu. Closed Mondays. Dinner from 5 PM. Bookings open at 2 PM, 30 days ahead, by email or WhatsApp. Website
- LPM Restaurant & Bar Gate Village, DIFC. French Riviera cooking and a cocktail bar in Gate Village; on The 50 Best Bars’ extended list in 2025 and 2026. Gate Village 08, DIFC. Order: A Tomatini, then the lamb cutlets. Lunch and dinner daily; the bar is open noon to 1 AM. Smart casual: no sportswear, beachwear or shorts. Website
- Ravi Satwa. The Satwa original, a Pakistani canteen open since 1978. Al Satwa, Dubai. The Satwa one; other restaurants called Ravi are separate. No website and no published hours. Walk in. Website
- Al Mallah Satwa. A Lebanese grill and shawarma counter on 2nd of December Street, with tables on the pavement. 2nd of December Street (Al Diyafah), Satwa. Order: The grilled chicken meal, with hummus and fattoush. Open 7 AM to 2 AM, from 9 AM on Fridays. Walk in. Website
- Al Ustad Special Kebab Al Mankhool, Bur Dubai. A family-run Iranian kebab house since 1978, its walls covered in photos of the people who’ve eaten there. Al Mankhool Road, near Al Fahidi Metro Station, Bur Dubai. Order: The kabab khas, mutton or chicken marinated in yoghurt. Lunch noon to 4 PM and dinner 6:30 PM to 1 AM; dinner only on Fridays. Walk in. Website
- Bu Qtair Umm Suqeim. A fish shack grown into a restaurant by the fishing harbour: choose fish or prawns, they’re weighed and fried in masala. By the fishing harbour, Umm Suqeim. Order: Masala-fried fish and prawns, with rice. No website and no published hours. Walk in and expect a queue around sunset. Bring cash, in case. Website
- Bait Maryam JLT. Chef Salam Dakkak’s Middle Eastern home cooking in a tower-block canteen; Michelin Bib Gourmand. Cluster D, Jumeirah Lakes Towers. First come, first served; it takes no bookings. Expect a queue at dinner. Website
- Kokoro Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz. A Japanese hand roll bar where the chefs roll each order in front of you, along one long counter. Warehouse 19A, Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz. Order: The set of three: sake, hamachi and spicy tuna. Open daily, noon to midnight. First come, first served; arrive early for a seat at the counter. Website
- WINDOW Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz. Kokoro’s team cooking over open flame in a 32-seat warehouse room, with seats at the bar counter. Warehouse 39, Lane 3, Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz 1. Order: The burger. Walk-ins only. Noon to 10:30 PM Monday to Thursday, and to midnight Friday to Sunday. Website
- Honeycomb Hi-Fi Business Bay. A listening bar and izakaya with a record shop at the door and guest DJs. Level 2, Pullman Dubai Downtown, Marasi Drive, Business Bay. Order: The wagyu katsu slider. Open daily from 7:30 PM to 2 AM (3 AM on Fridays and Saturdays). Booking is strongly encouraged; walk-ins aren’t guaranteed. Over 21 only after 10 PM, with ID. Website
- Mimi Kakushi Jumeirah 2. A Japanese restaurant and cocktail bar styled on 1920s Osaka; No. 42 on The 50 Best Bars 2026. Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, Jumeirah Beach Rd. Order: The Sayonara, an umeshu Negroni. Open daily, noon to 2 AM. Tables on SevenRooms. Website
- 7 Tales Dubai Marina. A cocktail bar on the 44th floor of Grosvenor House, looking down on the Marina. 44th floor, Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina. Order: The signature Negroni. Closed Sundays. Open from 6 PM to 1 AM; hours may vary. Walk in; for eight or more, contact the team first. Smart dress. No kitchen of its own; City Social’s menu until 10:30 PM. Website
- Spice and Gold Souks Al Ras, Deira. Lanes of open spice sacks beside a covered market of gold jewellers, a short walk from the Deira Old Souk abra station. Al Ras, Deira. Al Ras or Gold Souq (Green Line), about 5–8 min. Spice shops open daily from early morning to past 9 PM, but closed during the day on Fridays. Most gold shops open 10 AM to 10 PM, and later on Fridays, after midday prayers. Free. Website
- Jameel Arts Centre Al Jaddaf. Free contemporary art on the creek, with outdoor artists’ gardens. Jaddaf Waterfront, Al Jaddaf. Al Jaddaf (Green Line), about 12 min. Closed Tuesdays. Open 10 AM to 8 PM (from noon on Fridays). Free; check in at the welcome desk. Website
- The Third Line Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz. A contemporary art gallery, open since 2005, in a warehouse on the Avenue. Warehouse 78, Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz 1. Open daily, 11 AM to 7 PM. Free. Website
- Jumeirah Mosque Jumeirah 1. A guided visit for non-Muslim visitors, with time for questions and light Emirati refreshments. Jumeirah Beach Rd, Jumeirah 1. Closed Fridays. Visits at 10 AM and 2 PM, Saturday to Thursday, about AED 55. Cover arms and legs; women cover their hair, and robes and scarves are lent. Website
- Al Shindagha Museum Al Shindagha, Bur Dubai. The story of Dubai and its creek, told in restored houses where the creek meets the sea. Al Shindagha, Bur Dubai. Al Ghubaiba (Green Line), about 5 min. Open daily, 10 AM to 8 PM; last entry at 7 PM. Tickets about AED 50 online; booking ahead is advised. Website
A first week in Dubai
- Day 1: Arrive and see Downtown. Drop your bags and rest through the afternoon heat. After dark, see the Burj Khalifa from the lake, then a late drink at Honeycomb Hi-Fi, booked ahead.
- Day 2: Al Fahidi and the creek. Breakfast at Arabian Tea House, the lanes of Al Fahidi, then Al Shindagha Museum. Cross to Deira by abra for the Spice Souk and the Gold Souk.
- Day 3: Jumeirah. The 10 AM visit at Jumeirah Mosque, a swim from a public beach and lunch at 3Fils. Book dinner at Orfali Bros (closed Tuesdays).
- Day 4: Alserkal Avenue. Coffee at Nightjar, then the galleries and a film at Cinema Akil. Dinner at Kinoya, booked ahead.
- Day 5: Out of town. Choose one: the desert with a licensed operator in the late afternoon, or Abu Dhabi for the Grand Mosque and the Louvre (closed Mondays).
- Day 6: The creek, DIFC and Downtown. Jameel Arts Centre in the morning (closed Tuesdays), then dinner at LPM or Birch in DIFC.
- Day 7: Satwa and the beach. A slow morning on the beach, then Moonrise’s counter in the evening, booked weeks ahead (closed Sundays and Mondays).
Where people meet
- Gallery openings Alserkal Avenue’s galleries open new shows with evening receptions, and its Art Week runs in late November.
- Listening nights Honeycomb Hi-Fi books guest DJs; its calendar is on its site. Book a table: walk-ins aren’t guaranteed.
- Cultural meals The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding hosts Emirati breakfasts, lunches and dinners in Al Fahidi, with time for questions. Book a day ahead.
- Films Cinema Akil in Alserkal Avenue shows independent and classic films, with short festivals through the year.
Eating in Dubai
- Book the hard tables Moonrise seats 15 at each sitting and takes a deposit; Orfali Bros keeps the prepayment if you cancel within 72 hours. Book as soon as your dates are set.
- Where there’s a drink Hotel restaurants, bars and other licensed venues serve alcohol to over-21s; many independent restaurants don’t. Sharjah serves none.
- Check the bill Many restaurants add a service charge. If there isn’t one, about 10–15% is usual.
- Emirati food Try balaleet, sweet vermicelli with an omelette, and khameer bread at breakfast, and machboos, spiced rice with meat or fish, at lunch.
Getting around
- Taxis and apps Most trips are by taxi: RTA taxis are metered, with a minimum fare of AED 12 from the street or AED 13 booked in an app such as Careem or Uber. Distances are long, so plan one area at a time.
- The Metro The Red Line runs along Sheikh Zayed Road from the airport to DIFC and Downtown; the Green Line serves Deira and Bur Dubai. Tap a nol card in and out; Gold Class costs double, and some carriages are for women and children. No eating or drinking on board.
- The heat From May to September, highs average about 38–42°C and a 10-minute walk to a station is hard by midday. Plan outdoor time for early morning and after dark. The Metro runs until midnight, to 1 AM on Fridays.
Good to know
- Dress Shorts are fine on the street; in malls and other enclosed public places, cover your knees and shoulders. Swimwear is for the beach and the pool.
- Drinking Drink only in licensed venues, from age 21. Being drunk in public and drink-driving are against the law, with zero tolerance.
- Medicines Some prescription medicines are controlled in the UAE. Carry the prescription, and check the Ministry of Health and Prevention’s list before you fly.
- Photos and manners Ask before you photograph people. Holding hands is fine; more than that in public isn’t. Insulting someone, online or in person, can be a criminal matter.
When to go
November to March is warm and dry, with highs of about 24–31°C, and it’s the busy season for hotels and restaurants. From May to September highs average about 38–42°C with humid nights: plan outdoor time for early morning and after dark. Ramadan moves about 11 days earlier each year; in 2027 it’s expected to begin around February 8.
- November to March
- Warm days and cool evenings, and the busy season. Book hotels and the hard tables early.
- Late November
- Art Week at Alserkal Avenue, and the month-long Dubai Fitness Challenge, with free runs and rides.
- Late January
- Sikka, a free art and design festival in the historic quarter (in Al Shindagha in 2026).
- Ramadan
- Expected to begin around February 8 in 2027. Restaurants stay open, but many places change their hours: check before you go.
- April
- Art Dubai at Madinat Jumeirah, April 7 to 11 in 2027.
- May to September
- Highs of about 38–42°C and humid nights. Keep outdoor plans for early morning and after dark.
- Summer
- Some rooftop and terrace bars close until the autumn; check before you go.
Day trips and next stops
- The desert Book a licensed operator for the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, off the Al Ain road. Go in the late afternoon, when the heat drops and the light is low. About 1 h.
- Abu Dhabi RTA bus E101 from Ibn Battuta, or a taxi, to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (free; book a visitor pass online) and the Louvre Abu Dhabi (closed Mondays). About 1 h 30 m.
- Sharjah Taxi to the Sharjah Art Foundation on Al Mureijah Square, open from 9 AM (4 PM on Fridays). Sharjah serves no alcohol. About 45 min.
- Hatta The Hatta Express bus (H02) leaves Dubai Mall bus station every two hours, AED 25, for kayaks on Hatta Dam in the Hajar mountains. Check the times before you go. About 1 h 30 m.
Questions people ask
Is Dubai a good city for meeting people?
Try a gallery opening at Alserkal Avenue, a cultural meal in Al Fahidi or a listening night at Honeycomb Hi-Fi. If you’re an O member, you can also see people who choose to share overlapping travel dates.
Where should I stay?
DIFC and Downtown put you on the Metro and near the restaurants; Jumeirah puts the beach outside your door; Al Fahidi and the creek are the old city. Distances are long, so stay in the area you’ll spend most days in.
How do I get in from the airport?
From DXB, take the Metro Red Line from Terminal 1 or 3 to Financial Centre or Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (two bags at most), or a taxi from the rank; airport taxis start at AED 25.
Do I need a car?
No. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are easy, and the Metro runs the length of Sheikh Zayed Road. Rent one only for Hatta or a desert drive of your own.
What changes in Ramadan?
Restaurants stay open, and visitors who aren’t fasting may eat and drink in public, though many avoid it out of respect. Opening hours change, so check before you go.
The 2026/27 edition.